Monday 26 November 2012

So for starters .....


This blog was inspired by a divine aroma, a reminder of something I couldn't quite put my finger on - perhaps of nursery school lunches when you're small and very hungry, or that moment when you open the front door to find that someone else has spent the afternoon cooking.... a tang redolent  of good times, of simple pleasures and of food, wonderful food.  The smell was coming from the kitchen; it was irresistible..... I had to know what was cooking.

I was in the home of an elderly French couple, I'd popped in to pick up a dozen kilos of their homegrown tomatoes, and their lunch was on the go. I asked Madame what she was cooking.  'Just something simple', she replied.  The something simple looked as good as it smelled:  in one pan  a pheasant, jointed and  sautéed to golden perfection in its own juices, sat  on a bed of onions and garlic . In another pan, onions, glistening with olive oil,  simmered alongside  roughly chopped courgette, garlic and tomatoes, all picked that morning from the potager.  A fresh baguette and an unlabelled bottle of wine sat on the table laid for 2, there was a  camembert for afters on the sideboard.  Monsieur was due home any minute.

It was a feast fit for a king – local, mainly organic ingredients, cooked simply and to perfection. It was also just an everyday lunch to a couple who had eaten like this all their lives, following the seasons, farming their land and still working well into their 80's.

As a journalist I've covered meals cooked by great chefs, Michelin starred banquets with more champagne than you could shake a lobster's tail at, cooked by the great and the good and utterly wonderful - France is rightfully known for its haute cuisine and long may it continue.  But French home cooking has never been as threatened as it is now.  The rise of the frozen meal has happened here just like everywhere else, and the  French no longer have the time - or the resources - to produce daily wonders cooked from scratch.  Bistros are closing at a rate of knots and there is current controversy over the widescale use of frozen, or sous vide ready prepared products being served up in traditional restaurants.  Everything from bundles of haricots verts rolled in bacon to ready mixed scrambled egg is available and being used regularly in a depressing number of French restaurants.






A French Lunch is an ode to real French food - from Mamie cooking for 2 in her kitchen in the French countryside, to a young chef sourcing fresh ingredients at the local market and producing an inventive and delicious menu at budget price.  Simple meals, cooked well and eaten with pleasure.   It’s a look into other people’s kitchens, a snapshot of their lives and a record of a vanishing France.



Making Catalan meatballs
Slow food.



Snails cooked on vine embers